Welcome to Manins' truck camper project



Accessory and USB sockets in the glove box shelf.

Power in Cabin

Albeit a risky thing, I have installed an always-on NARVA Twin Accessory/Dual USB sockets in the open glove box area of the cabin. This is Item 81144, not 81144BL which includes a blue LED in the USB socket. It consumes around 2 mA compared with 12 mA for the "BL" version.

Behind the glove box area chosen for the sockets there is a clear space in the framework. This provides the necessary clearance for the sockets and cabling.

The sockets are connected to the +12 V truck supply through a 10 A fuse and Pin 6 of the Body Builders 20-Pin Connector (see TT_wiring for more information).


The standard radio is linked to the CAN-BUS system, and has a timer to automatically shut down to conserve battery power.

The MENU control has the option IGN TIME (6th item ↑) where you can change the timer from 20 minutes to 0 minutes and vice versa using the ← and → buttons.

But 20 minutes is too short when parked up. So its good to change the timer to 180 minutes (the only other option).

  • Turn on the radio.
  • Within 15 seconds, simultaneously press "FM AS" and preset button "2". Keep them pressed until the display changes. Each time this pair of buttons is pressed, the display will alternate between NORM IGN and CARAVAN.
  • Ensure that CARAVAN is displayed. Let go the buttons.
  • Then press MENU and check that option IGN TIME shows 180 and can be changed to 0.

TravelTrucks wired the camper speakers (over the table) in parallel with the cabin speakers. But the camper speakers are slightly more efficient, ie louder, than the cabin speakers and they cannot be adjusted separately. I have changed this by making the camper speakers the "rear" speakers for the radio — the rear channels in the radio were not being used. Now the sound in the camper can be adjusted separately from that in the cabin, using the radio Fader.


From SuperCheap Auto, I obtained an Aerpro APP053 car radio wiring harness. Any "ISO Female harness to vehicle xxx" would have done, since what I needed was the radio speaker connector with all its pins present. I unjumbled the TravelTrucks speaker wiring, terminating the wires with crimped ferrules, and joined them to the new (red) connector block via two screw terminal strips, one for each of front and rear speakers, i.e., cabin and camper speakers. With some difficulty I extracted the rest of the wires from the OEM connector (i.e. the power and CANBUS wires) and transferred them to the other new (black) connector. The photo shows the result, ready for the radio.


Accessory and USB sockets on the cabinet wall next to the cooktop.

New Charge Point

A new NARVA 81144BL Twin Accessory/Dual USB sockets in now on the wall next to the cooktop. This proves to be a very usable place for this, out of the way but very handy. They are wired in parallel with the sockets under the sink on circuit labelled "AS2". The blue LED in the USB socket is annoying at night and a waste of power. Using a 1 mm dia. drill, I drilled about 2 mm deep into the socket body just behind the flange. This successfully killed the LED.

Touch Screen Power Down


The switch in bottom left postion controls power to the touch screen.

In standby mode, with no appliances and lights running the biggest power consumer is the touch screen, even in sleep mode, at over 300 mA. To reduce the consumption to something below 100 mA (the resolution of the system monitor) I have added a switch to the panel of circuit breakers under the touch screen. This switch cuts the power to the touch screen circuit F12 fuse. Circuits for F13, F14 are also for the touch screen, but they consume very little power.

Courtesy of TravelTrucks this is the fuse identification chart:


N.B. If the vehicle ignition is turned on and the handbrake released, the fault alarm for the camper will sound if the touch screen power has been turned off!

Solar Shields

To block out the sun during the day, and for privacy at night, we have a set of solar shields from Top Gear 2 Go. These do not use suction cups. The shields for the door windows are held in place with magnets and the windscreen shield is actually in two overlapping pieces and held in place by the sun visors. They are custom made for the Daily and work very well.



The table is mounted on a Lagun pedestal, allowing it to be set in many positions. However, its stowage position, over the left seat, was too close to the screen door. Relocate the mounting plate under the table by moving it 38 mm to the side that it was already offset.


Table as supplied.


Mounting plate moved.


Table now relocated.

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On rough "roads" with lots of swaying, the table often moved around — the Lagun clamps cannot be done up tight enough to stop this. With enough movement, without the restraint of the table the seat back and even the squab, ended up on the floor. We are now in the habit of clipping a webbing strap over the table to keep it in position. A 50 mm webbing saddle from Whitworths Marine screwed to the front wall of the module restrains the strap.

Sink Board


A 300 x 450 mm polyethylene cutting board from Chef's Hat was cut to size and a rebate routed around the edge so that the board is a good fit in the sink. This then gives a platform for meal preparation and for "things" at other times. It has proven to be very successful.



Where do you carry a shovel to dig the wheels out of sand, bury waste, etc.? On the Daily 4x4 the rear-most 68 mm dia. chassis tube is ideal for the job. Insert pieces of foam matting in each end, insert the Mexican-made Truper Multi 2-in-1 Shovel/Spade with timber handle (bought from Bunnings at the time) and restrain using a heavy rubber strap. No security, but no problem.


Rear chassis tube with shovel inserted, padding with foam matting.


The shovel handle extends all the way through the chassis tube.


The shovel is restrained by a rubber strap.

Mar.2017:The shovel has been moved to the chassis tube just behind the Auxiliary Fuel Tank. This was to make way for a storage box behind the rear mudguard. See also Hand Wash.


Personal Location Beacon

We have a GME MT410G personal safety beacon (plb) located behind the driver's head in the cab. Its UIN is 3EF691093F81FE0 and Beacon S/N 1408315654

The beacon is registered with AMSA and this registration expires on 10 November 2018.

The instruction manual is available from GME but for completeness, is also here.

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Soap Holder

So simple its brilliant! A steel cap is pressed into the soap and a magnet in the wall attachment holds the soap above the basin, dry and ready to use.

Available on eBay, such as this one for a couple of dollars.



   Striker plates in door.


Magnets 320 mm apart in door frame.

Washroom Door

The supplied elastic strap for holding the washroom door closed is difficult to use. To reduce the need to use it, three 7 mm dia. cylindrical rare-earth (Neodymium) magnets have been embedded in the door frame. They are spaced 320 mm apart and match up with chromed steel plates screwed to the door itself. They hold the door closed sufficiently well that on normal roads no other latching device is necessary. Off-road, either the supplied strap or another modified one is used.



Hand Wash

The tap at the rear of TT30 is much used for washing hands. A liquid soap dispenser makes it even better. I bent up a bracket and drilled a 28 mm diameter hole for the bottle neck. The bracket mounts on two existing bolts for the tail light assembly. When it ages a bit it will be painted black.

An additional, springy, bracket bent up from galvanised iron, is located beneath the bottle. This stops the bottle from vibrating on rough tracks (don't ask!).

Apr.2017: The tap, filler and hand wash have been moved to just behind the Auxiliary Fuel Tank since a storage box has been added at the rear. See: here.

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Drawer Modification

All the drawers are made of fibreglass and are mounted on double extension slides so they come out a long way.

The drawers below the kitchen sink collided with the knobs of the under-bed drawers if they are left unlatched. Despite protests from Jannette, I cut notches in the drawer edges to clear the knobs. This works very well in practice and saves a lot of potential damage.


Weather Station

A weather station bought on eBay some time ago is installed in the kitchen area. It has a wireless outdoor temperature and humidity sensor as well as indoor sensors including pressure. Importantly, it has a backlight for checking the time at night. The weather station is mounted using a M4 cavity wall anchor into the splashboard of the kitchen. Note that the wall is double-skinned there.

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The outdoor sensor is mounted on an aluminium bracket bolted to the rear wall of the cab behind the driver's head. A steel rivet-nut is installed there to take the bolt. This location is mostly shielded from the sun but is affected by engine heat when stationary and there is no wind.

Rear Diff. Breather

The breather for the rear differential had a bad kink in it, possibly closing off the tube. I cut the kink out of the 6 mm I.D. thin-walled nylon tube and with help from a hot-air gun, installed a nylon barbed elbow.

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Medicines Cooler

On extended trips we need to carry a large number of packets of tablets and other medicines since we are such good supporters of the medical fraternity. They take too much space in the fridge, and don't need to be kept so cool.

A second fridge would consume too much energy and takes up too much space. Since we are travelling most days and it is usually cool enough at night, a Peltier-type cooler, operating only when the engine is running, should meet most needs. If stationary for long enough, the cooler can always be plugged into the house battery during the day.

There is room behind the driver's seat for a small enough cooler. On eBay we found:

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The cooler draws 3A continuously (more than a fridge on average!). I disconnected the plugs to the driver's seat warmer and seat belt alarm, and used the seat-warmer supply cable as the power source for an accessory socket mounted on the floor behind the seat. The cooler cable plugs into the socket, or can be moved to a similar socket supplied by the house battery.

A digital thermometer nearby monitors temperature in the cooler. The cooler seems to work well. It is a good fit behind the driver's seat.

Update Sep17: The fridge has not proved to be very useful. Further, rubbing on the cab-camper bellows has been a problem, with the bellows rubber wearing due to movement. A fix for this has been put in place. See here.

Windscreen Suction Caps

With five or more devices on the windscreen, "held" by suction caps that occasionally let go, something had to be done to keep them there!

The solution:


Cutout Bridge

The bridge between the cab and the camper protects the bellows but makes it difficult to keep the bellows clean. Lots of stuff accumulates there. Being pop-riveted into place, the bridge cannot be removed easily.

I drilled out the pop rivets and replaced them with M4 aluminium Rivet Nuts. Now M4 cross-point headed bolts hold the bridge in place. Its easy to remove the bolts for cleaning.

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Excessive wear of the bellows joining cab to camper has occurred due to rubbing from things such as the medicines cooler. This has led to development of two shelves or bridges over the bellows so items can still be sat there behind the cab seats.


Shelf behind passenger seat. 3M double-sided tape and two screws hold it in position.


Shelf behind driver seat with removable plastic tie-downs. Some repairs to the bellows is evident.


A local sheet metal company bent up the shelves per this drawing.

Storage Doors

After extensive off-road travels, the storage doors did not seal well. It took a while to realise that the latches are adjustable so that pressure on the pinch-weld could be increased. Each latch has a black roller held in position by a bolt with Allen-key head. One latch on each door has a small round magnet sitting over the bolt head to activate a reed relay when the door is closed. Strangely the size of the Allen key is different for the bolt with the magnet!

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Outside Shower


The outside shower, behind a hatch on the driver's side, was supplied with a hose made from a type of reinforced garden hose that is far too stiff to feed out from and back into its storage hole.

The hose has been replaced with a 1.5 m stainless steel shower water hose that slides easily from its travelling position. A 15 x 10 mm screwed brass bush was required to couple the new hose to the line from the mixer tap, but the shower head screwed into place without any issue.


Bunnings sells a better quality shower hose for three times the price. Note that you need a model that does not have the end fittings crimped on since the fitting at one end has to be disassembled to pass through the bush in the storage hole.

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With the hose removed, I was able to cut a notch into the storage hole bush to mate with a tag on the shower head. This provides positive engagement of the shower head when stowed.

Inside Shower

The inside hand-held shower doubles as a basin faucet and could not be set up to be hands-free — rather important when madam is washing her hair. A vertical shower rail was needed.

A shower rail has to allow for the pop-top roof movement. A floor to ceiling tube sliding in a tube with a shower head holder clamped to the outer tube would do the job.

  • Bunnings sells the Monarch Razorback 1.6m–3m Smart Lock painter's Extension Pole. This consists of tough anodised aluminium tubes, one 25 mm dia. and the inner one 23 mm dia.
  • A replacement ABS chrome shower slider holder for a 25 mm dia. rail is available from eBay. door_stop.jpg
  • To mount the tubes on the ceiling and the floor, use Adoored stainless steel door stops (with rubber stop removed!) for each. They are 25 mm dia. and have a neat flange.

The extension pole was disassembled and several 40 mm deep cuts were made in one end of the 25 mm dia. tube so that a door stop could be forced onto that end. It was pop-rivetted together during installation. The tube/door stop was cut to an overall length of 1140 mm.

Removing the plastic eccentric clip from the black locking device at one end of the 23 mm dia. tube left an end piece that helps guide the tube inside the outer one. The tube/end piece was cut to an overall length of 1280 mm and a 10 mm offset for the lowest 300 mm was bent into the tube so the final upright assembly would clear the toilet. A blue plastic collar from the locking device is retained to wedge into the door stop on the floor and two screws added during installation hold the tube in place.


The collapsable shower rail. The upper tube, attached to the floor, slides inside the lower tube, attached to the ceiling. The shower head holder is in position on the lower tube.


Shower head in position on rail ready for use.


Shower rail attached to the floor.


Shower rail attached to the ceiling; pop-top down.


Covered Toilet Paper Holder

TT30 came with nothing to hold toilet paper in the washroom. Keeping it dry is a necessity.

Whitworths sells a moulded covered toilet paper holder that I have attached to the wall along with a mirror above using double sided tape. Works well.

Headlight Breathers

The headlights, mounted low in the bumper bar to meet ADR requirements, have a breather tube that can allow water in when fording creeks. Once the light cluster is removed for access, its a simple matter to push a length of garden sprinkler tube with a cap to keep out bugs into the breather tube and route it high.


A length of black sprinkler tube inserted into headlight breather. A new Auxiliary Horn is in the foreground.


The black tubing is routed behind the right light cluster and capped with a red sprinkler head.


The black tubing is routed behind the left light cluster and capped with a red sprinkler head.

Warning Horn


Since the emergency button on the camper module touch screen utilises an Auxiliary Horn, I decided to install one. Further, the Class 1 switch console in the Cabin has a button labelled "Air Horn" so that when pressed, the Auxiliary Horn sounds along with the twin OEM horns when the horn button on the steering wheel column is pressed.


Wiring was in place for the horn albeit incorrectly done at the 12-Pin Body Builders' Connector. It took some time to figure out the error but once found I routed the green "HN" signal cable to Pin 7 of the 12-way Connector and plugged a High Tone Narva 12 V horn into the "HN" power cable that was under the left headlight cluster. The horn is bolted to a bracket behind the left bumper bar.


A Tablette for the Cab

The Daily cabin is remarkable for its lack of anywhere flat. A flat surface in the Daily cabin makes the area more usable for a cup, bowl or notebook when camped up — a flat surface such as in this photo!





A thin white cutting board from Kmart for $2.50 is the material for the tablette.


The board is cut to size using a hand saw. It is a neat slide fit into the glove box.


Blocks of PCV are superglued to the sides of the glovebox, set down by the thickness of the board. This for stability.

MaxTrax for TT30

Getting bogged on the Inner Birdsville Track crossing the Warburton Floodplain, with just 30 m to elevated terrain was no fun. The wheels just spun in the soft grey mud. I carry sandbags for such an eventuality but they were simply spat out when the tyres gripped them. Fortunately with the winch on the back, the cable fully extended and three snatch straps joined, it was just long enough to reach an old gate post behind the truck. An easy pull and we were out!

Beyond time to install a set of four MaxTrax. They come with Tell Tale leashes. To mount them on the rear sloping surface of TT30 I used a MaxTrax Mounting Pin Set with extra-large stainless steel M8 mudguard washers. Three spring lynch pins and a padlock secure the MaxTrax.


In the mud winching ourselves out. An anchor point was just in reach.


Where we were! Very slippery grey mud.


Four MaxTrax on board. They bolt to the rear of TT30 using a MaxTrax mounting kit.