Welcome to Manins' truck camper project

Camper Lights

Generally, lighting is managed from the camper touch screen. There are exceptions: the camper overhead reading lights and personal bed lights are individually switched, and the washroom light will only work if the water pump is turned on.

Interior Lights

When parked up, it was inconvenient to have to manage the kitchen and washroom lights from the touch screen. So individual switches have been added. These are small round white rocker switches, obtained through eBay from ganvillage_blue.


Kitchen bench light; individual switch in series with touch panel.


Washroom light; individual switch in series with touch panel.


Hatch Light

The storage area under the passenger-side seat in the Camper is in high usage. A light above the hatch is easy: a LED strip wired to the same 12 V source as for the awning light (below) and a door switch (a momentary OFF push button switch) embedded in the hatch frame so that when the hatch is opened the light turns on.
BTW: I had to put a seal strip around the frame and adjust the hatch latch to stop an annoying rattle.

Perimeter Lights


The perimeter lights are activated by the Class 1 CAN-Bus switches at the side door and on the dashboard. Those at the rear also double as additional reversing lights though this function can be disabled by a CAN-Bus switch on the dashboard in case the light is blinding to those behind.

Using the existing wiring for the perimeter lights (see TT wiring), it was a simple matter to fit LED flood lights that were each less than 24 W capacity (a limitation TravelTrucks mentioned to me). I chose the 18 W rectangular work lights sold by Good Kit because they were the right size and had a quality mounting bracket. They are actually about 13 W when operating. However, these have proved to be very unreliable with a 50% failure rate and no replacements available from Good Kit.

Do NOT patronise Good Kit. They do not respond to requests for replacement and do not honour their warranty!


Each of the installed cables had been terminated in a waterproof Deutsch 2-Way female connector. Luckily these connectors are available from, for example, Jaycar (Item PP2150) and I was able to fit a male connector to each flood light.


18W flood light above rear mudguard on passenger side.


18W flood light above auxiliary fuel tank on driver's side.


18W flood lights each side of the Back-2-Front winch at the rear. These are optionally reversing lights as well.

Update Oct16: The 2 remaining good flood lights from Good Kit were moved to the rear of the vehicle and new '18W' 7" bar lights (actually about 13 W too) were installed on each side. The selected light bars have mounting brackets at each end, so scrub will not so easily be entangled, and come with a Deutsch male plug already fitted.



Light bar behind step on passenger side.


Light bar over aux. fuel tank, driver's side.

Update May17: ALL the Good Kit worklights have now failed. The last two only lasted a little over 12 months. Avoid this supplier!

Jaycar sell a good quality LED flood light of suitable size. It comes with a Deutsch male plug already fitted.


These lights are now in place at the rear of TT30 and work well.

Awning Light

IMG_5793.JPG IMG_5780.JPG

An awning light that has a PIR infrared motion sensor helps negotiating the steps and door lock at night. The Narva Awning Lamp #87792 is such, and I bought one from autoelec on eBay.


I set a small SPDT Centre Off Rocker Switch from Jaycar into the overhead cover of the doorway.


Switch for awning light.

The switch sets the awning light off, always on, or on when motion is detected.

With considerable difficulty I fished two twin cables from the light into the camper behind the wash room light and across to the switch. A second twin cable goes from the switch to a power takeoff installed on the main cable channel behind the touch screen.


Power takeoff. +12 V supply is from Fuse 19 rated at 10 A.

Power for this comes from fuse 19 on the fuse panel next to the back of the touch screen; the fuse is 10 A. Earth connection is from the earth rail just to the left of the power takeoff. The takeoff also supplies power for the hatch light, the battery charge manager, including the control of the BEP DVSR to manage the alternator charging.

Update Sep17: Although the light is good, its motion detector is not. It too often does not detect, or turns the light off too soon, or turns on and off at seemingly random times. A fix is to provide a timed light at the door

Entry Light


A press of the green switch at the entrance turns on the light above for about 3 min.

The light in the lintel for the entry door is now controlled by an illuminated switch near the switch cluster in the entrance. When the switch is pressed, the light stays on for about three minutes before automatically turning off.

Power comes from the same feed as for the awning light. I had hoped to use the spare red/black pair labelled "HL" there but it seems to be unconnected.


The circuit for the light delay is the same as used for the UHF radio, but with omission of the ignition-switched supply and isolating diode. It uses a CMOS NAND device with Schmitt-trigger inputs, a CD4093B, to monitor the voltage across an R-C pair made up of a 1MΩ resistor and a 330μF capacitor. The measured time delay is 2min 50s.

Upon pressing the switch at the entry, the voltage across the R-C pair jumps to 12 V and then decays to a low value. The device output, which jumped low and turned on the light, then goes high and switches off the p-Channel MOSFET to cut off power to the light.


I use just one of the four NAND devices in the CD4093B. It does not need a special power supply – it is powered directly from the house battery. The MOSFET is a IRF9540N. It is capable of handling huge current, but here it only needs to switch a maximum of less than 5 mA (the LOAD). It and all other components come from Jaycar.